When I used to live in Delhi (this was a while ago), a small restaurant operated next door, that I would often go to for brunch. Steaming, delicious south Indian fare in a north Indian city. The owner, a mild-mannered south Indian man, got only so much foot traffic. Around the time I was moving to the States, I went for what was probably the last time. It was clear that he was shuttering soon. He cited the very same problems.
Years later, in business school, we did a case on restaurants, and I remember wondering why people went into the restaurant business at all, given the low margins, if any. It was probably the same day that I went to office hours, and saw the professor stocking his shelves with soylent. I love that for him and everyone (many here in the bay area) who are satiated by Soylent and equivalents, but that journey is not for me. As a true blue Bengali, I live to eat, and I am so grateful to all like you who keep going inspite of it all.
I love strange delight, live right down the street, will keep coming back, but now I see you’re a great writer too?? If you can’t make the math work idk how anyone could. Rooting for you. 🙏🫡💪
Ham, thanks for sharing your experience. I have many thoughts but here’s one: You, Sohla, and Carla Lalli (and others no doubt) have each shared very important and transparent information about what it takes to do what you do, and how that compares with what you get back or what the market wants to offer you in return. This insight has a positive impact on others in so so many ways. And as someone who lives 3,000 miles away and can’t get to your restaurant, I am excited for your cookbook. We will all be better for it.
It's important for people to understand how things like this work. I think many people assume that small business owners are wealthy just because they own a business, when that couldn't be further from the truth. Most business owners don't cut themselves salaries or see any profit for a few years, or until they expand.
This is a great summary, brutal to see spelled out so clearly. Thanks for your honesty. If it makes a small difference, when I was in NYC for a work trip last year, I dragged three friends onto two trains to come to eat at Strange Delight. It was fantastic. We had the best service, the best food, the best time. A table near us was filled with women celebrating a birthday party. The vibe was jovial, warm, and delicious. You've done a good thing there and I hope the math works in whatever way it must to allow you to keep doing it. Can't wait to read the book. -A fan from the Midwest
Many issues downstream of dumb political policies - leasable square footage being so supply-constrained and landlord risk aversion is a result of NYC's refusal to let real estate development operate as an actual market. Food costs a result of dumb Trump admin trade policies. Extremely frustrating since no matter which team you vote for, they're doing something to screw things up for normal people.
Thanks for taking the time to write this. We need more storefront business owners, including restaurants, explaining that the math doesn't math. And when it doesn't, what is your neighborhood left with? This is true everywhere, sadly, not just in New York City.
Next adventure: writing the memoir. Intentionally or not, you and Sohla have become public figures so I'll wager there's a lot of interest in the details of your history. Or histories. Both of you, separately or together. We already know you are wonderful writers. Your appreciation of the absurd is communicated in humor that transcends generations.
Go big or go home! That's the only place left. Increase your prices to don't-care zone and go after people who will pay them. Adapt to serve their way of life. Give them tables with filtered air, speedy hygienic service, and soundproofing.
Because regular folk aren't sustainable business clientele, and the elites are forever underserved.
A kitchen used to be the only stage. Now chefs are building tables elsewhere and bringing people with them. That isn’t dilution of craft. It’s survival with authorship intact.
I'm often asked if I'll open a restaurant, or even do pop ups outside of my usual home based supper clubs. When I suggest the meal they paid only £40 would cost them double or triple for less variety, they rescind their suggestion. I have all the hope and respect for everyone who takes that leap, however, because eff it: we need dreamers and utopian thinkers. And I'm eternally grateful for the sacrifices made so that I can enjoy meals out.
When I used to live in Delhi (this was a while ago), a small restaurant operated next door, that I would often go to for brunch. Steaming, delicious south Indian fare in a north Indian city. The owner, a mild-mannered south Indian man, got only so much foot traffic. Around the time I was moving to the States, I went for what was probably the last time. It was clear that he was shuttering soon. He cited the very same problems.
Years later, in business school, we did a case on restaurants, and I remember wondering why people went into the restaurant business at all, given the low margins, if any. It was probably the same day that I went to office hours, and saw the professor stocking his shelves with soylent. I love that for him and everyone (many here in the bay area) who are satiated by Soylent and equivalents, but that journey is not for me. As a true blue Bengali, I live to eat, and I am so grateful to all like you who keep going inspite of it all.
Thank you for such an insightful comment! I'm intrigued to hear that people in the Bay Area actually live on Soylent and it isn't just a caricature!
I love strange delight, live right down the street, will keep coming back, but now I see you’re a great writer too?? If you can’t make the math work idk how anyone could. Rooting for you. 🙏🫡💪
Thank you! If I'm around next time you're in, be sure to say hi!
Ham, thanks for sharing your experience. I have many thoughts but here’s one: You, Sohla, and Carla Lalli (and others no doubt) have each shared very important and transparent information about what it takes to do what you do, and how that compares with what you get back or what the market wants to offer you in return. This insight has a positive impact on others in so so many ways. And as someone who lives 3,000 miles away and can’t get to your restaurant, I am excited for your cookbook. We will all be better for it.
It's important for people to understand how things like this work. I think many people assume that small business owners are wealthy just because they own a business, when that couldn't be further from the truth. Most business owners don't cut themselves salaries or see any profit for a few years, or until they expand.
This is a great summary, brutal to see spelled out so clearly. Thanks for your honesty. If it makes a small difference, when I was in NYC for a work trip last year, I dragged three friends onto two trains to come to eat at Strange Delight. It was fantastic. We had the best service, the best food, the best time. A table near us was filled with women celebrating a birthday party. The vibe was jovial, warm, and delicious. You've done a good thing there and I hope the math works in whatever way it must to allow you to keep doing it. Can't wait to read the book. -A fan from the Midwest
Thank you!
Many issues downstream of dumb political policies - leasable square footage being so supply-constrained and landlord risk aversion is a result of NYC's refusal to let real estate development operate as an actual market. Food costs a result of dumb Trump admin trade policies. Extremely frustrating since no matter which team you vote for, they're doing something to screw things up for normal people.
Thanks for taking the time to write this. We need more storefront business owners, including restaurants, explaining that the math doesn't math. And when it doesn't, what is your neighborhood left with? This is true everywhere, sadly, not just in New York City.
Sometimes people ask us “oh, are you going to open a restaurant?”
… when every chef I know is asking how to get into content creation.
Hahahahaha! Yup.
Great piece. Gonna make the ride up the G to check out Strange Delight!
As a former fort Greene local, you’ve won me! Need to come soon and maybe get my work (FreshDirect to partner with you somehow 😅)
We use FreshDirect all the time! They have great giardiniera.
Hi Sohla, I am going to read this because I do love Ham, but when are you going to write something for us again
no pressure though, I follow you on YouTube so I will be ok
Next adventure: writing the memoir. Intentionally or not, you and Sohla have become public figures so I'll wager there's a lot of interest in the details of your history. Or histories. Both of you, separately or together. We already know you are wonderful writers. Your appreciation of the absurd is communicated in humor that transcends generations.
Go big or go home! That's the only place left. Increase your prices to don't-care zone and go after people who will pay them. Adapt to serve their way of life. Give them tables with filtered air, speedy hygienic service, and soundproofing.
Because regular folk aren't sustainable business clientele, and the elites are forever underserved.
A kitchen used to be the only stage. Now chefs are building tables elsewhere and bringing people with them. That isn’t dilution of craft. It’s survival with authorship intact.
Hi Harrison! Lovely to connect!!!
I too have major grease trap trauma. I love my drain guy if you need one, though he doesn’t clean the trap. That’s a separate expense 😭
I'm often asked if I'll open a restaurant, or even do pop ups outside of my usual home based supper clubs. When I suggest the meal they paid only £40 would cost them double or triple for less variety, they rescind their suggestion. I have all the hope and respect for everyone who takes that leap, however, because eff it: we need dreamers and utopian thinkers. And I'm eternally grateful for the sacrifices made so that I can enjoy meals out.